• Light climbing

The "Gamma 2" ferrata on the Resegone

We tested one of the most fascinating and challenging climbing routes in the Lombardy Alps near Lecco: 500 meters of tough ascent, immersed in a great landscape. Here's how it went.

Marco Trabucchi

The "Gamma 2" ferrata on the Resegone
CHALLENGING THE MOUNT RESEGONE

Although I have been practicing climbing for some time, I was not very experienced in climbing routes (ferratas), considering them 'old' stuff. I was wrong. In early September a friend, much more accustomed than me to the practice of climbing, asked me to do the "Gamma 2" on Mount Resegone, mythical mountain of the Lombardy Alps in Lecco.

 

It is a very popular 'classic' among mountain lovers, with long exposed sections and a superb view that extends over the Grigna and the Po Valley. I accepted willingly, although it was described as "Very difficult with some extremely tough passages". The length of the via ferrata is 500 meters, it takes in total 4-5 hours, including the return to the cable car station. About 3h just for the via ferrata.

Early in the morning we drive towards Lecco, going up to Piani d'Erna (602 mt.) and reaching in few minutes the cable car that leads to another cable car station. Once at the end of the cable car, we go down to the left along the way to the meadows, where clear signs indicate the direction to the via ferrata, initially coincident with the path n. 5 that goes up to the Azzoni mountain refuge (Resegone Peak).

After about 15 minutes walking in the woods sometimes at downhill, at a junction, the path forks leading on the right to the Fo mountain Pass and on the left it continues in our direction. After another 15 minutes walking on the left side of the path n. 5 there is the second signage for the via ferrata, in view of the first chains.

The beginning is fairly bland, but the "Gamma 2" already reveals its beauty, a feeling that won’t leave us for the rest of the climbing. In many parts the difficulty is remarkable, with an effort that makes it unsuitable for untrained people. Yet there are a lot of people along the Gamma 2 in this sunny Sunday.

CHALLENGING THE MOUNT RESEGONE
A FERRATA FOR TRAINED CLIMBERS

As for climbing, even in the via ferrata is good to use your feet, always put them well on the ground, so that you don’t strain too much your arms that push on the chains. Two long and exposed stretches are particularly hard physically and if you arrive there "burned out" the enterprise becomes particularly difficult.

It’s a spectacular via ferrata and the feeling grows every meter. But it's hard to do it if you are not trained. I strongly discourage beginners, even if accompanied by an expert (unless they are well-trained), and to all those who do not have a slightest notion about the basics of climbing. Do not be fooled by the simple beginning, almost trivial, because the difficulties are in the second half of the way, often accentuated by tiredness.

Two-ways to go back to the starting point, at the station of the cable car. First one: in 15 minutes of ups and downs you reach the Azzoni mountain refuge and from there, on the path n. 1, down to the starting point. Second one: you choose a quickest route (approximately one hour), but more challenging. At the end of the chain you go down a few meters along the path and, at the junction, instead of going right, turn left and follow the trail marker n. 10, which indicates the immediate descent downstream through the channel Bobbio, that in the most delicate parts is secured with short lengths of chain.

 

Tips:

- Bring the best performing climbing shoes. They will come in handy during the via ferrata.
- Use your feet on support.
- Helmet compulsory for frequent rocks falling.
- There are a couple of escape routes, use them if you decide not to do the whole via ferrata.
- On the Resegone there are also easier and less exposed routes: the ‘Centenary’, the ‘Pizzo Erna’ and the ‘De Franco’. Consider them too.

A FERRATA FOR TRAINED CLIMBERS
© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

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